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Joined: November 12, 2008
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Location: Panora, IA
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 6:42 pm Post subject: bug dies at stops..choke or heat risers? | |
i have been having a problem with my bug dieing when i brake usually after being in 3rd or 4th gear. I have done a tune up, and timed. I got fuel at the right amount and at a constant rate. Heres what i think: 1. I have a choke problem: as soon as i start the car up and rev it a bit, the butterfly choke valve at the top of the carb is in the fully open position. Doesnt seem right. Isnt it supposed to gradually open? 2. I have a heat riser problem: My heat risers are semi warm, but the throat/neck under the carb, at the top of the intake, is ice cold like someone put it into a deep freeze. That doesnt seem right. Don't the risers prevent this? THese are my ideas. Are they logical? anyone got other ones? thanks!! |
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Location: McMinnville, TN
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 6:58 pm Post subject: | |
Is it happening when fully warmed up? The choke should be open by that point regardless. You may try increasing the idle speed slightly. It should be checked when fully warm anyway. Clogged heat risers could cause the icing and not let the fuel vaporize properly. Aftermarket 'performance' mufflers can impede proper flow through risers. I had a leaky throttle shaft on a carb that caused icing. |
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Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 10:43 pm Post subject: | |
Vac leak? When you adjusted the idle and mixture did it go well? Did the engine respond to the screws? Did your tune up include re-kitting the carb? Blow out the idle jet? jim |
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Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 10:52 pm Post subject: | |
What kind of carb? If it's stock, open the idle mixture screw half to one turn to richen the mixture and see if it still does it and back it out some more if need be. As far as the choke goes, when its cold it should be almost completely closed. when you rev the motor cold, the vacuum diaphram will pull the choke plate open. |
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Location: Panora, IA
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 1:22 pm Post subject: | |
the tune up did include a carb rebuild. I am running a 34 pict 3. When i push on the gas, the choke opens, but instead of closing again (when she's cold) it just stays wide open. It still dies at stops no matter how much i richen the mixture. The engine did respond to the mixture and volume screws being turned, but only a bit. I had to turn one full revolution of the screw before i got anything, but a vacuum leak could still be possible i guess. idle jet is clean. where would the leak most likely be if there is one? Also, could it be the muffler i bought that isn't heating things right? |
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Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 1:58 pm Post subject: | |
was it just Calif cars that had both heat risers, I thought all 1600DP's had heat risers on both sides? have you read this article yet, good stuff on this topic: http://www.vw-resource.com/heat_risers.html based on your symptoms, I would say that icing is causing your stalling problem...check the one heat riser to make sure it's not clogged and make sure there isn't another heat riser opening on the muffler that needs to be blocked off. If I'm wrong (happens a lot) about the dual heat risers, this may be enough to correct your problem...or, you may want to watch the classifieds for a new intake. on your other issue: http://www.vw-resource.com/choke2.html If you have power and adjusting it doesn't work, you probably need to replace the choke element. It's very easy to do and not too expensive @ CIP1: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-129-191-G but, it won't correct your stalling problem |
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Location: Panora, IA
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:06 pm Post subject: | |
i have dual heat risers on the engine, but when i bought my exhaust, it specified either a left or right heater pipe on the exhaust. this is what i purchased from mid america... will it work with my 1600 dp on a 74 super? |
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Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 10:08 pm Post subject: | |||
Yes, the cars that had double heater risers had them on the front and the rear so it would be a total of four connections. That setup you purchased will work just fine for your 74 that should only have the riser on the rear. That one will also work with those that have the heat riser on both sides, the other connections will be on the heater boxes if they're needed. |
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Posted: Thu May 14, 2009 7:18 am Post subject: | |
So i take it we have a problem with the heat risers being clogged then? But i will check the exhaust just to be sure. would it be possible that the holes are not drilled through all the way in the heat risers tubes on the exhaust if i bought it from mid america? just read some others posts that had this problem... Any other opinions or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!! |
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Location: Panora, IA
Posted: Fri May 15, 2009 2:24 pm Post subject: | |
well it turns out our heat risers are clogged.....extremely. we are going to buy a new intake and heat riser assembly. any one got some words of advice or personal expierence when it comes to buying these? which companies make good ones? which companies are crappy? thanks _________________ (/O\) l.....l (\=/) ...ll..... |
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Location: Richmond VA
Posted: Fri May 15, 2009 3:37 pm Post subject: | |
Before buying a new intake, I would try and clean out the clogged heat risers on the manifold, if you search there are a few posts on methods used for cleaning these out. |
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Posted: Fri May 15, 2009 8:28 pm Post subject: | |
we tried cleaning them out already, and they are overdue to be replaced. they look like they have been through a couple nuclear wars. ![]() also, i jst read a few posts from other topics....could the problem be how far my tail pipes are pushed in on either side? i just pushed them untill they hit something and stopped. is there a measurement? or is bottoming them out the right thing to do? thanks again. |
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Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 6:48 pm Post subject: | |
anyone? _________________ (/O\) l.....l (\=/) ...ll..... |
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Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 6:54 pm Post subject: | |
I know I tried to clean out my heat risers and I was able to get about 3/4 inch in after 2 hours of trying to run steel cable through it.. carbon is hard! I don't know about which aftermarket manifolds you to buy.. but maybe you can try your local craigslist or look for an original German manifold here... just make sure the seller is able to blow through the risers before you buy or you will be in the same situation. Also, I read that running Sea Foam through the gas once in awhile works to keep the carbon down. |
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Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 6:54 pm Post subject: | |
I had the same problem. I would run about 15 miles at 70 mph and when I came to a stop light and let off the gas the car would die as I stopped. Someone said maybe I was vapor locking. So I insulated my fuel line in my engine compartment and as far as I can tell now It has solved the problem. I wouldn't have believed it if it hadn't happened to me. _________________ 72 Beetle |
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Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 7:23 pm Post subject: | |||
I don't know about an official answer, but this is what Rob and Dave say at VW Resource: http://www.vw-resource.com/vw-resource.com_non_ssl/muffler_discussion.html#pea
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Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 7:44 pm Post subject: | |
is your manifold a single or dual port??? _________________ 1969 VW Bug W/Sunroof. 1760cc 74mm stroker with 87's....lots of low end power...... **UPDATE** NOW WILL HAVE A 2180 INSTEAD OF 1760 |
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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 9:43 am Post subject: | |
dual port _________________ (/O\) l.....l (\=/) ...ll..... |
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Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 7:20 pm Post subject: | |
ok we have a new heat risers assembly because our other one was really clogged up. heres the deal: after working on putting everything back together and replacing an accelerator cable during the process, we finally managed to take it out for another test drive. Everything ran fine except IT STILL DIES AT STOPS!!!! we think it is a fuel problem...something like fuel in the bowl not reaching the idle jet, or tipping forward as the car slows down and leans forward with the force of the stop. Anyone got some ideas of what the problem could be? thanks _________________ (/O\) l.....l (\=/) ...ll..... |
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